Showing posts with label pacific northwest. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pacific northwest. Show all posts

22 May 2012

Notes from Disappering Lake: The River Journals of Robert Sund



Robert Sund is our bard of the Skagit River, a singer of songs celebrating skunk cabbage, frogs, muddy water, ducks, and the rising tide.

In the summer of 1973, the poet — who studied under Theodore Roetke at the University of Washington in the early 1950s — built a small dwelling on the pilings of a former fisherman’s shed in the estuary of the North Fork of the Skagit River. Access was only by boat and though his hermitage was only a short paddle from La Conner and downstream from the active artists’ colony at Fishtown, he felt worlds away, “far, far back,” from modern society.

This remove gave Sund time and space to closely observe the rhythms of the natural world, as well as the fluctuations of his own thoughts and emotions, and he recorded these impressions in a series of thin, 26-page notebooks. The tidal marsh surrounding his shack, formed where the glacier-fed Skagit mixed with the saltwater of Puget Sound, provided him with endless inspiration for more than a decade of on-again, off-again residency.

“Out on the river you know you are in the midst of a great creation,” he wrote. “You see the old work and the new work side by side: the ancient migration routes of all the birds, and the slow building of silt and soil in the estuary.”

The choicest tidbits from Sund’s 75-plus journals have been extracted and lightly edited to produce a new volume of work from the well-loved poet, who passed away in 2001. Assembled by Sund's close friends Tim McNulty and Glenn Hughes, Notes from Disappearing Lake: The River Journals of Robert Sund presents poem-like journal entries documenting life in the Skagit River estuary alongside spiritual insights, weather reports, and pithy celebrations of friendship and community.

“Robert was obviously not there to advise us,” explains McNulty, “but he was definitely looking over our shoulder as we worked on this project. We excerpted material that was pretty much intact and didn’t need to do much editing. Robert’s voice was rough and authentic and we wanted to keep it that way. Several friends have read these pieces and said, ‘This is like spending time with Robert again.' "

July, 1973
Snipe walking through the
  flowers & grasses
picking worms & bugs out of
    the mud —
Wren on the front porch
  tiny feet
  tick tick.
Robin, swallow
crow, seagull, heron
goldfinch, duck
blackbird . . .
Who needs a radio?
Song at morning
song at evening
and all day long ...
   This is the real news:
    Local, regional, & world-wide.

Though he departed more than a decade ago, Sund’s unique voice, as expressed through his poems, painting, and calligraphy, has risen in repute since the 2004 publication of Poems from Ish River Country by prestigious publisher Shoemaker & Hoard, home of Gary Snyder, Robert Hass, and Wendell Berry. The Museum of Northwest Art’s successful Fishtown and the Skagit River exhibit in 2010 only heightened interest in the unique countercultural confluence of art, poetry, and spirituality that flourished in the Lower Skagit in the 1970s and '80s.
The recent attention paid to to this now-gone locality contrasts the original inhabitants’ desire to be left alone, hiding out in the marsh grasses where they could be free to pursue their alternative lifestyles.


“(The) burgeoning community (of Fishtown) reflected the larger national impulse towards going back to the land, living simply, and disengaging from chaotic political and social events,” Kathleen Moles writes in Fishtown and the Skagit River, the catalog for the MONA exhibit.

Sund had a deep interest in Chinese literature of the Tang and Sung dynasties — as many drawn to Fishtown did — and his shack provided him a private place to live like the hermit poets he read at night by lantern light. The seclusion, hardships and exposure to the raw elements of storms, tides and bird migrations were a forge for his poetic aspirations.

“A river mouth, in and of itself, exerts an influence on human consciousness that becomes manifest in music, literature, and art,” points out Skagit Valley novelist Tom Robbins in an essay in the MONA catalog.

Sund’s journals contained unvarnished etchings of that Skagit-flavored manifestation, and editors McNulty and Hughes’ work to unearth new material from their friend also revealed insights in to the poet’s methods.

“Robert’s journals held his day-to-day notations; they’re perceptive, unique, sometimes dazzling, and of course poetic,” McNulty explains. “His observations offer keen insights into nature, record subtle personal reflections, and explore the experience of solitude in a wild, natural landscape. At the same time they're often happy and joyful. The journals capture those aspects of Robert’s process, personality, and aesthetic in an immediate way. Chip and I had a great time exploring the journals and delighting one another with new discoveries.”



April 24, 1977   4 A.M.
In the excited mind
          words fly.
The night is still, the water still ––
          & suddenly, in the mind
(as on the night river
          a beaver
breaks the silence)
the first ripple of a poem
swims almost invisible by the river bank.
Blades of grass standing in the river
          feel the waves rise and
                    pass through them.

McNulty further says, “I see a marked contrast between the experience of Robert’s journals and the way we’ve become so locked into gadgets and digital media. The idea of Thoreau-like experiences, of being alone in stunningly beautiful landscape and following the mind’s drift on a daily basis…it can’t hurt.”

In light of this posthumous collection of Sund's work, words he once wrote seem prophetic:

Maybe exalted gestures will be
            retrieved in our time.
Maybe our grandchildren will go through
            our trunks and boxes
                  and be amazed.


Poems are copyright 2012 Robert Sund Poet’s House. Top photo: Erik Ambjor; middle: Paul Hansen, untitled (Fishtown landscape); bottom: Christian Martin

21 May 2012

John Scurlock's "Snow & Spire: Flights to Winter in the North Cascade Range"




John Scurlock makes his living working as a paramedic for the Bellingham Fire Department, but finds his calling soaring high above the North Cascades in a small yellow aircraft that he built with his own hands. Flying in all varieties of unpredictable weather above the raggedy peaks and yawning glaciers of our “American Alps,” he circles his snowy subjects, does his best to focus his Canon 5DmkII 21 MP digital camera through the plexiglass canopy and captures vistas most of us will never see with our own eyes.

The results reveal a vast landscape buried in snow and encrusted in ice, a wintery terra incognito of terrifying beauty and austere grace: the frost-bound North Face of Mt. Triumph, impossible cornices on Cloudcap Peak, fire lookouts encased in rime, the Pickett Range hidden in mist, Mount Baker’s shining snowfields, Ripsaw Ridge and Skagit Queen Creek and Park Creek Pass in snowy, silent repose. This is the terrain that holds the world’s record for most snowfall ever recorded in a single winter, and Scurlock’s photography unveils the artistic potential of this seldom-seen northern range: “something primitive, forbidden and inaccessible, yet also profoundly and exquisitely beautiful,” according to Scurlock.

Scurlock's first book, Snow & Spire: Flights to Winter in the North Cascade Range, is a coffee-table-sized collection of his aerial photography published by Wolverine Publishing in Colorado. It represents a culmination of several years of determined labor and features stunning reproductions of his body of work, plus essays by geologist David Tucker and mountaineering historian Lowell Skoog. A display copy in the window of Winthrop's bookstore has attracted more walk-in traffic than they can remember for any other book, and the initial print run of a few thousand seems destined to sell-out as word spreads through Scurlock's networks of climbers, nature photographers, NPS and USFS staff, pilots, naturalists, scientists and other friends.



Christian Martin: When did you first start photographing the North Cascades from the air?

John Scurlock: My first aerial photographs of the North Cascades were in the 1990s when I flew up there in a Cessna with a friend, looking at routes in the southern Picket range for a possible traverse. But my first digital aerial images were in early 2002, when I began photographing Mount Baker and got connected with Dr. Kevin Scott at the USGS/Cascades Volcano Observatory. That led to my meeting with his associate and friend, Dave Tucker from Bellingham. We've collaborated extensively since then, with me supporting their research into the geologic and volcanic history of Baker. I started photographing the rest of the range in winter after I observed the winter mountains while flying above and around Baker. Because of my familiarity with the North Cascades through climbing, I knew I was seeing the mountains in a condition that was really unknown, and I knew photographs of the range in winter either were very limited or didn't exist. That led me eventually to my great obsession…



CM: What were the outlines of your obsession?

JS: Well, I was familiar with the range from climbing and hiking in the summer, but I realized at the outset that seeing the mountains in winter was an incredibly altered condition from what I was used to. I marveled at their stunning beauty after this snowy transformation. I knew I was seeing things that no one else had ever seen or photographed, and that led to my determination to somehow photograph the entire range from the air during the winter. I didn't dive right in however, but rather gradually expanded my boundaries as I gained experience. At this point, I am fairly satisfied that's I've flown into every nook and cranny of these mountains during winter.

CM: When did you begin flying?

JS: I had always wanted to fly, since childhood. I had thought that nearsightedness disqualified me, until I found out in my 30s that I could still be a pilot, though not professionally. After getting my pilot's license, I wanted to own a plane, like all pilots dream of. It was suggested that I could build a better plane than I could buy, and so after some investigation, I started in on my plane, a kit called an RV6 from Van's Aircraft. It took nine years to build, as I traveled, hiked, and skied extensively during that time. It's a small, 26-foot, two-seat tail-wheel plane of conventional construction. It's very versatile, with a fast cruising speed, good handling at slow speeds, generally docile, and a service ceiling of more than 20,000 feet. The design has stood the test of time, and it has proven to be a really great airplane.



CM: What is your goal in photographing the North Cascades and sharing these photographs?

JS: My goal with all my photography, and this book in particular, is to share the amazing beauty of the North Cascades in winter, from every aspect and angle. I've been enormously privileged to see things that are nearly incomprehensible in their wildness and wonderful aesthetics. I've been so fortunate to be in the position to photograph what I've seen and share those images with everyone else. Photography is the means to accomplish this; digital photography, a great airplane, and obsession are the driving forces, and not a day goes by that I don't remember how fortunate I've been in this endeavor.


31 January 2012

Northwest Natural Bookshelf: Notable regional titles in 2011

Reviewed by Christian Martin

David Hall (University of Washington Press)
Skilled diver David Hall is obsessed with the weird cold-water ecosystems found off the northern Pacific Coast, with their iridescent squid, ghostly salmon, glow-in-the-dark jellyfish, psychedelic nudibranchs, curious seals and neon anemones. It is a great gift to all of us landlubbers that Hall is also a photographer who, through state-of-the-art equipment, innovative techniques and plenty of fearless gumption, captures this hidden world in glorious images rich in color, detail and ecological context. It is bewildering to learn what unseen life dwells just off of our local shores, and how little we know about this mysterious and beautiful world.

Ana Maria Spagna (OSU Press)
Stehekin resident Ana Maria Spagna writes perceptively and generously about the ties that bind communities: people to people, people to place, self to story. Also serving as a memoir of her travels near and far, Potluck celebrates the ordinary rituals that define our lives.

Edited by Thomas Lowe Fleischner (Trinity)
An environmental studies professor at Prescott College in Arizona, Tom Fleischner’s local roots stretch back to summers spent working in North Cascades National Park and the founding of North Cascades Institute. Defining natural history as “a practice of intentional, focused attentiveness and receptivity to the more-than-human world,” his vision of a zen-like study of the natural world is fleshed out in this volume with essay and poetry contributions from Jane Hirshfield, Robert Michael Pyle, Kathleen Dean Moore, Robert Aiken, Scott Russell Sanders and others.

Lorraine McConaghy (Sasquatch)
A unique and entertaining way to explore our state’s history, Lorraine McConaghy – historian at the Museum of History and Industry in Seattle – assembles a wide-ranging selection of documents from public archives to tell the century and a half story of Washington State. Presented in colorful, sharp images, these documents range from the first telegraph to the new Washington Territory from Abraham Lincoln, the Point Elliott Treaty and a program from the 1909 Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition through to FBI files on D.B. Cooper, blueprints for the Kingdome, radio transcriptions during the eruption of Mt. St. Helens, a handbill from the WTO “Battle in Seattle” and poster for SubPop’s Lamefest featuring an unknown band named Nirvana. Even ordinary artifacts like letters, wills, cartoons, menus, snapshots and advertisements provide insight in to the extraordinary trajectory of the Evergreen State.

David Suzuki (Greystone)
In 2009, Vancouver-based broadcaster, author and elder environmentalist David Suzuki gave a last lecture that synthesized his perspectives and insights on the fate of the world: where we’ve come from and where we’re going. This book expands on that talk, with a focus on exponential population growth, the technological revolution and the ecological footprint of a global economy. Luckily for us, Suzuki also presents his vision of a sustainable future that is within our reach. A harrowing yet ultimately inspirational presentation from a vital voice of sanity.
Derek Hayes (UC Press)
It is difficult to describe all of the riches that Derek Hayes’ latest atlas project offers to the armchair historian. Its 200+ pages brim with more than 500 maps, photos, newspaper clippings, pamphlets, illustrations, advertisements and other historical ephemera, all succinctly explained and consolidated in Hayes’ descriptive yet succinct text. The journey begins with the earliest known maps of Washington and Oregon drawn up by explorers like Quadra, Barkley, Quimper, Gray and Vancouver – scrawled yet often elegant relics reflecting the limits of knowledge of the first Europeans venturing in to this rugged landscape – and gains sophistication as missionaries, railroad workers, miners, loggers and other settlers begin to push in to the territory. Later pages are devoted to the development of the interstate road system, national parks and forests, irrigation and hydropower, floating bridges and atomic and aerospace industries. Open to any page of Hayes’ bursting compendium and you’re likely to be engrossed by the diversity of materials and depth of research.

John Scurlock (Wolverine)
Flying a small, yellow, home-built airplane out of Concrete, John Scurlock explores the North Cascades in wind, weather and light that inspires most people to be safe and cozied up at home. The results of his extraordinary forays in to the inaccessible corners of this range are photographs of a landscape seldom seen before, a wintery terra incognito of terrifying beauty and austere grace. *Snow & Spire*, a collection of Scurlock’s aerial photography and his first publication, is a culmination of several years of determined labor and features stunning views of Baker, Shuksan, Forbidden, Terror, the Picketts and beyond, plus essays by WWU geologist David Tucker and mountaineering historian Lowell Skoog.

Thor Hanson (Basic Books)
Winner of the 2011 Northwest Booksellers Association book of the year award and a Library Journal Top 10 Science Book, *Feathers* tells the natural and cultural history of the feather – one of the most highly evolved objects in nature. Hanson is a conservation biologist with experience in the field studying everything from trees and songbirds in Costa Rica, bears in Alasks and gorillas in Uganda, and he possesses the rare gift of translating scientific concepts in to prose both captivating and poetic. Writing from his home on San Juan Island, Hanson takes the reader back to the Chauvet Cave in southern France, through Greek and Hindu mythology, up to recent discoveries using DNA fingerprinting, all the while exploring the development and uses of this evolutionary marvel.

Andrew Nikiforuk (Greystone)
Celebrated in Canada as one of their most engrossing nonfiction books of the year, journalist Andrew Nikiforuk focuses his honed investigative skills towards the tale of an insect “the size of a rice kernel” that has killed more than 30 billion pine and spruce trees from Alaska and northern British Columbia, down the Rocky Mountains range into Colorado and New Mexico. There are many villains in this man-made tragedy -- climate change, unsustainable logging practices, misguided science, a century of fire suppression – and the author makes his best attempt to draw lessons and look ahead into the unknown future of one of the world’s greatest natural heritage.

Hank Lentfer (Mountaineeers Books)
A finely-wrought memoir of a life lived in a remote town in southeast Alaska, Hank Lentfer weaves together threads of conservation, natural history, parenthood and family. Sandhill cranes, passing over the author’s home every fall on their journey between California and Alaska, serve as the inspiration for his quest to find hope in a world seemingly intent on crushing all things beautiful and natural.

15 December 2011

Fire Lookouts of the North Cascades


I made this slideshow to accompany Gary Snyder's recent reading in Seattle -- he requested I create some visuals of the North Cascades that would put people in the right frame of mind for his poetry. It features images from a wide array of very talented photography, most of whom I work with at North Cascades Institute, and explores the cultural history of the upper Skagit Valley and North Cascades.

18 April 2011

Moral Ground


Kathleen Dean Moore’s ethical response to climate change
Reviewed by Christian Martin

Because of humanity’s addiction to fossil fuels, we are warming our planet beneath a cloak of carbon dioxide in our atmosphere.

Here in Washington State, rising temperatures and a warmer climate are causing our glaciers to melt faster than they can replenish themselves. This is leading us towards a future with less fresh water for agriculture and drinking and less resources for inexpensive hydroelectric generation. Over 40 of our coastal communities are threatened by rising sea levels. Sagebrush-steppe and alpine ecosystems will disappear as the tree line shifts, and growing seasons are changing in unpredictable ways. The loss of several amphibian species, alterations in bird and butterfly migratory patterns and invasions of unchecked, voracious insect infestations are already underway. Ocean acidification is choking the abundant life in Puget Sound and bays of the outer coast. Eastside forests are drying up and wildland fires will become more prevalent. We humans will face a deadly spike in infectious, respiratory and heat-related illnesses as the natural world around us smolders.

Heard this laundry list of doom before? Most likely you have, and it’s because scientists have done an impressive job of both studying the phenomenon of global climate change and communicating the causes and effects to the public. The effort has be so heroic that the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 2007 for “for their efforts to build up and disseminate greater knowledge about man-made climate change.”

While the data, interpretations and subsequent warnings from the scientific community are essential pieces of this puzzle, Kathleen Dean Moore, Distinguished Professor of Philosophy at Oregon State University, recognized that something was missing. Moore, the author of personal essay/nature writing books like Riverwalking, Holdfast and Wild Comfort, teaches environmental ethics and moral reasoning to students and she soon realized that the scientists’ arguments, no matter how comprehensive, were not going to inspire us to act to save our world.

“Clearly, information is not enough,” she writes. “A piece is largely missing from the public discourse about climate change: namely an affirmation of our moral responsibilities in the world that the scientists describe. No amount of factual information will tell us what we ought to do. For that, we need moral convictions.”

In Moral Ground: Ethical Action for a Planet in Peril, Moore and co-editor Michael Nelson assemble 80 of the world’s leading visionaries, leaders and writers to create a compelling call to action. The goal of the anthology is to confront the challenges of climate change based on moral and ethical grounds. It is a chorus featuring the sterling voices of the Dalai Lama, Barack Obama, Desmond Tutu, John Paul II, Barbara Kingsolver, Paul Hawken, Thich Naht Hanh, E.O. Wilson, Wendell Berry, Bill McKibben, Terry Tempest Williams, Gary Snyder, bell hooks and many others from cultures and countries around the globe.

“Do we have a moral obligation to take action to protect the future of a planet in peril?” the editors asked of their contributors, “and if so, why?”

The answers – inspiring, creative, sobering and grounded in reason – are presented in thematic clusters, including “Yes, for the survival of humankind,” “Yes, to honor our duties of gratitude and reciprocity, “Yes, for the stewardship of God’s creation, “Yes, because justice demands it,” “Yes, because the world is beautiful.”

Moral Ground strives to start the conversation about “who we are when we are at out best, what we must do to be worthy of our gifts” and how we might live on Earth “respectfully, responsibly and joyously.” These are essential questions to ponder here at the most crucial turning point our planet has ever faced.

03 December 2010

Road Trip: The Olympic Peninsula

My first 2010 trip away from the Salish Sea occured in May when I caught the Keystone Ferry for Port Townsend and spent a solo week in Olympic National Park, hiking, paddling and observing the emerging lushness of spring. My first destination was Lake Ozette in the far northwestern corner of the state. I posted up at a nearly-empty campground on the northshore, dropped my sea kayak on to the lake and paddled a couple of hours south to a remote backcountry campsite at Erickson’s Bay. I was lucky to have decent, stable weather, no wind and Ozette — the third largest lake in the state — all to myself. Trails from the bay, as well as from the northshore campground, wind 3 miles through coastal forests, prairies and the remains of homesteads to the wild Pacific coast, where one can explore tidepools, view sea stacks, observe seabirds and seals and search for migrating grey whales and the famous Wedding Rocks pictographs.

At Ozette, with long agenda-less days stretching out before me, I started reading Tim McNulty’s wonderful book, Olympic National Park: A Natural History, recently updated and reissued by University of Washington Press. Tim’s amiable guide helped me to know the stories behind the nature I was so enjoying, like what the flourescent blobs in the tidepool were, or how sea anenomes and starfish interact, or where the whales were coming from and where they were going. I greatly appreciated not only the wealth of authoratative natural history information in the book, but also the friendly tone and poetic descriptions that Tim employs to make the unique “island” ecosystem of the peninsula come to life.

Sitting next to a campfire reading the chapter on the cultural history of the peninsula — and the amazing story of the Ozette Village archaeological discovery and recovery — inspired me to make my next stop at the Makah Museum in Neah Bay to witness the tribal artifacts that were discovered in the 1970s beneath a slumping mudbank facing the ocean.

Having the museum all to myself, I spent several hours marveling over all the different essential items of life that the Makah created from natural materials at hand : waterproof cedar bark hats, mussel-shell harpoon tips, halibut hooks made of bone, fishing nets woven from stinging nettle fibers — all well preserved from being encased in mud for hundreds of years. I was especially taken by the technologies that the Makah developed to stalk, kill and process whales that migrated past their villages every spring — the massive sea-going cedar canoe on display was amazing for its marriage of form and function — and could hardly imagine the fortitude and skill that was required to hunt these behemoths of the sea. I was also drawn to the displays of masks, rattles and other talismans that the tribe used to interact with the spirit world, especially in the long, wet, dark days of winter when families had retired to their shared cedar longhouses.

Leaving the northwestern corner of the park, I drove south, spent a night at Rialto Beach for more beachcombing, and then traveled on to the Quinault Valley. I was hoping to paddle around this lake too, but had a hard time finding a boat launch, and the afternoon wind was making the lake choppy, so I motored up the dirt road following the North Fork of the Quinault River until it dead-ended at another empty campground and trailhead.


The rainforest is a riot of green growth fed by 10 to 15 feet of rain every year. Within its verdant cathedrals lies a very deep and profound silence. After spending several days in the presence of this silence — interrupted only by the whirrrrr of divebombing hummingbirds, the kaw of ravens and the clacking of river stones being washed down to sea by the milky, glacial-fed river — everything slows down and you have more space to notice and appreciate what’s around you. In an age of information traveling at light-speed and the constant din of digital infotainment, a languid break in the Quinault was just what I needed. At the end of my week, I was very sad to leave this sanctuary, but made a vow to keep in touch with the tempo I had rediscovered there.

May is a superb time of the year to visit the Olympic Peninsula: no mosquitoes, no tourists, endless places to camp, low elevation (and therefore snow-free) trails and the full green goodness of spring. The national park facilities like visitor centers and ranger stations were not yet opened, but I knew what I was doing and so didn’t miss them. It’ll get quite a bit more busy for the summer once school is out, and then slow down again in September as the big leaf and vine maple leaves change colors and fall to carpet the forest floor.

11 June 2010

Welcome Home : Getting to know your neighbors through natural history



Two weekends ago, I ventured up the Mt. Baker Highway with undefined plans to make my first sojourn of the season in to the high country. It was a spur-of-the-moment adventure and, winding my way eastward and alone, I found myself wishing I had a hiking partner to share the sunny day with – a longing that was soon satisfied when I crossed paths with an old friend at the ranger station in Glacier. Having explored Washington's wilds together for nearly two decades, neither of us were surprised to see the other. He jumped in to my truck and we drove to road's end at Artist's Point, where we struck out towards the fearsome glaciers of Komo Kulshan.



The day was blindingly bright and relentlessly hot. We strode along the trail, across lingering patches of snow and up onto an exposed high ridge that offered the hint of a breeze -- a blessing that kept the bugs at bay. The path wound through fields of lupine and valerian and rock gardens festooned with stonecrop, monkeyflower and heather in full-bloom. Below us yawned barren, boulder-filled valleys only recently released from the great pressures of scouring ice. A ptarmigan rustled in the shade of contorted spruce trees and ravens croaked overhead, swirling and diving against the flawless blue sky. We walked slow, absorbing these varied details and intoning the names of species, landmarks and processes that dovetail to shape this alpine Elysium.



All of this investigating -- our burrowing in to the layers of stories that landscape offers to the curious -- reminded me of how much more rewarding spending time in nature is when one knows a bit about where one is. Accessing this knowledge, and having a few simple tools to learn more along the way – a topo map, compass, wildflower field guide and hand lens – provided my friend and I an intimacy with our surroundings. This intimacy enriched our day by deepening our experience. It allowed us to bear grateful witness to the intertwined narratives of the landscape and, most importantly, provided us countless entry points in to the impersonal drama and beauty of the wild.

Rapport with nature fosters connection, and connection enhances our sense of belonging. This is no small comfort, to feel ensconced on a planet of rock, water and ice hurtling through the dark void of space at 67,000 miles per hour.

I once asked Northwest naturalist Robert Michael Pyle, rambler *par excellence* and award-winning author of Wintergreen, Sky Time in Gray's River and several volumes on butterflies, about the benefits of studying natural history.

"We always care more about our neighbors, and our neighborhood, when we know their names and something about their ways of life," Pyle responded. "This is just good manners for any resident of a particular place."

Knowing that, in our society, many people want to know what they'll "get" before exerting any effort, I asked Pyle what an individual gains from possessing such knowledge.

"A window on the world everywhere," he replied, "for what is local knowledge *here* is always applicable *there*: one sees patterns of relationship and connection, once one is used to looking at the real physical details of any given place. Local natural history provides a lingua franca for feeling at home anywhere. "



Lupine, raven, "glaciated andesitic stratovolcano." It was good to be home.

15 July 2009

Jim Lynch's "Border Songs"



Tides vs. Borders
Jim Lynch’s novels explore back corners of Washington Stat
e

by Christian Martin

Jim Lynch hit on something sweet and surprising with his 2005 debut novel The Highest Tide. Readers fell in love with it in a big way, first here in the Pacific Northwest, then across the country and eventually around the world. Awarded the Pacific Northwest Booksellers', translated in to eight different languages in 20 different countries and adapted for the stage in a successful run at Seattle's Book-It theater, The Highest Tide proved to be quirky and smart. Lynch's prose is rich with natural detail that brings the ecology of southern Puget Sound to vivid, squirming life and his plot peopled with believable characters and interactions.

Not since David Guterson and the Snow Falling on Cedars phenomenon have Pacific Northwest readers' hopes been so high for a local author's sophomore follow-up. With the release of *Border Songs*, Lynch's literary strategy seems to be based on the mantra, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." His new novel is built on the familiar foundation of his first, employing a very similar storyline, pace, tone and intention.

In The Highest Tide, the protagonist Miles O’Malley is a shy, sensitive 13-year old boy, a good-natured innocent that doesn't fit in with others around him but finds solace (and highly unusual discoveries) in wild places.

In Border Songs, the protagonist Brandon is a shy, sensitive 23-year old young man, a good-natured innocent that doesn’t fit in with others around him but finds solace (and highly unusual discoveries) in wild places.

Differences exist, to be sure: Miles has a unique bond with the sea life found on the beaches of his home near Olympia; Brandon finds connection with the bird life in his home in northern Whatcom County. Much of Miles’ introspective withdrawal comes from escaping his parent’s bitter marriage, while Brandon’s awkwardness arises from a condition that resembles Asperger Syndrome. Miles becomes a sensation in the media and with a religious cult; Brandon becomes an unlikely hero for the Border Patrol.

There are many pleasures to be had in reading Border Songs, and I expect that our corner of the country will be especially receptive owing to the novel's aforementioned setting. The story takes place on and around the US-Canadian border, and pivotal scenes take place in the unlikely settings of Blaine, Ferndale, White Rock and Semiahmoo. The story examines the overlapping tropes of homeland security, marijuana smuggling, terrorism and political posturing, surveying these contemporary border issues through the eyes of a wide cast of eccentric characters. From dope growers to federal officers, illegal immigrants to dairy farmers, truck drivers to casino boosters, these pages are full of true-to-life northern Whatcomites living along the 49th parallel.

Many of the local details are spot-on too -- the character of the Nooksack River, the smell of manure on the wind, the high demand for BC bud, even the seasonal bird life -- all demonstrating Lynch’s affinity for northwestern Washington State. The sense of place that the author creates is only possible through humility, a slowed-down attentiveness and sensitivity to nature.

Is the new novel too much like the earlier one, too predictable, to be enjoyable? Or did The Highest Tide hit upon such a winning formula with enough rich possibility that it begs to be explored in shifting scenarios? Readers will decide for themselves.

All in all, Lynch has delivered the finest literary treatment of our region since Annie Dillard's The Living. But whereas The Living is often seen as stern, morbid and uncompromising, Border Songs is whimsical, sensitive and full of heart.

01 May 2009

Northwest Bookshelf

A survey of recent titles that explore native art and culture, local birds and resident whales, mountaineering and the mycorrhizosphere, and other topics both relevant and esoteric.

Reviews by Christian Martin

In the pages of Douglas H. Chadwick's The Grandest of Lives: Eye to Eye with Whales (Sierra Club Books), the Whitefish, MT-based author of *True Grizz* turns his attention to the coast and delivers an insightful and impassioned exploration of humpback, northern bottlenose, orca, minke and blue whales. A mixture of natural history, personal travels and the latest scientific information, Chadwick writes clearly and convincingly, his enthusiasm for cetaceans keeping the narrative aloft. Journeying through the Puget Sound, the author describes an afternoon spent with orcas as providing "…a few hours that raise enough questions to last months or years, partial glimpses of a thousand possibilities, notes penciled on to data sheets, and, almost always, a glimmer of magic in between the lines."

Natural history comes alive in Birdsongs of the Pacific Northwest (The Mountaineers Books), which combines field guide information with a CD of recorded birdsong. Stephen R. Whitney and Elizabeth Briars Hart created the detailed drawings and assembled the identification data, while Martyn Stewart did the admirable work of producing excellent field recordings of dozens of birds found in the Northwest. Stewart's was daunting task: he collected birdsongs for four years to produce this CD, battling the ambient noise pollution of everyday clatter like leaf blowers and auto traffic, often recording for twelve hours in order to capture a quality 20-second recording. Whereas previous offerings of the sounds of birds found in our area were actually recordings from the eastern United States, Stewart is proud to have recorded Pacific Northwest birds singing in their unique Pacific Northwest dialects.

There is also a wealth of natural history in Jon R. Luoma's The Hidden Forest: The Biography of an Ecosystem (Oregon State University Press). As the title suggests, this is a deep profile of a forest, from the mycorrhizosphere to the crown and all points in between. The place is called the H.J. Andrews Experimental Forest – 16,000 acres of old-growth in Central Oregon's Cascade mountains – and serves as a living laboratory from which countless discoveries about the ecology of Pacific Northwest primeval forest have been uncovered. Legendary University of Washington forestry professor Jerry Franklin is the main dramatic character here, and *Audubon* magazine editor Luoma does an excellent job serving as interpreter of science and nature.

Home Ground: Language for an American Landscape (Trinity Press) is a volume that likewise seeks to better interpret and understand the landscape, and it revels in the diversity of the lexicon with which Americans have used to describe the physical features of our country. Edited by Oregonians Barry Lopez and Debra Gwartney, *Homeground* is an unusual reference book that collects and presents distinctively American vocabulary that have grown out of distinctive American land- and water forms. Do you know what a bogmat, desire path, cowbelly or nunatak are? How about a pingo, viewshed, riprap, oxbow lake or hueco? Each term is an indigenous expression for a particular natural feature, and in order to preserve these homegrown linguistics, Lopez and Gwartney assigned 45 different writers from all around the country 20 terms to research and define, resulting in 850 unique definitions. So, the reader gets Robert Michael Pyle on "stream sink," Barbara Kingsolver on "karst," Patiann Rogers on "panhandle," Jon Krakauer on "gendarme," Terry Tempest Williams on "chaco," plus contributions from Gretel Ehrlich, Charles Frazier, Bill McKibben, Linda Hogan, Kim Stafford, Robert Hass and many other gifted wordsmiths. The resulting text is oddly fascinating, hypnotic even, thanks to the wide range of writing styles and voices.

While not the kind of book you'll want to curl up with for a relaxing winter evening of pleasure reading, Haida Gwaii: Human History and the Environment from the Time of the Loon to the Time of the Iron People (University of British Columbia Press/University of Washington Press) does seem to me to be an indispensable book for those interested in the lifeways and culture of local native peoples. Reading the book itself is dense and humorless – I much prefer scientific writing that is "literary" while remaining factual – but regardless of the monotone prose, there is a wealth of new information in these pages of the old ways of the civilization in what are now called the Queen Charlotte Islands: the evolution of black bear, three-spined stickleback, caribou, cedar and ferns in relationship to Haida Gwaii people, ice age impacts and a trove of traditional stories, like young boys turning in to ducks, Foam Woman creating floods and the arrangement of all beings by Raven. "Science is coming of age," writes Haida elder Guujaaq in the Foreword," and while there is a convergence and a reconciliation of science with our histories, scientists may have to take our word on certain facts."

Oregon State University also published a book that illuminates the dimmer corners of ancient Pacific Northwest History, and Katherine Barber's Death of Cellilo Falls (UW Press) is a fine biography of the Dalles area of the Columbia River, a place that attracted indigenous people for 11,000 years. At the height of the Cellilo era, over 10,000 Indians gathered there for the spring and fall salmon runs, arriving from all corners of the Northwest to fish, harvest, socialize and trade. Pipestone, buffalo meat and horses arrived from the east, blankets and beads from the north, obsidian and slaves from the south and wappato from the west – and everybody left with tons of salmon jerky. Barber's book travels from these times of plenty through to the building of the Dalles dam and the irreplaceable loss of this hub of native Northwest civilization.

But far the most intriguing way to absorb local native history would be Gerta Moray's Uncommon Encounters: First Nations Imagery in the Art of Emily Carr (UBC Press/UW Press), a coffee table-sized book that leavens academic essays with archival photographs, sketch book drawings and watercolors, maps and dozens of color plates – a kaleidoscope of artistic outpourings from Emily Carr, one of the premier painters of the west coast of North America. Moray's scholarship explores the interactions between early British Columbian settlers and the First Nation people of the Vancouver Island region, and finds in Carr's life and work a complex attempt at interracial contact that was respectful, sensitive and gifted, though still obviously colored. Her paintings of longhouses, totem poles, village scenes, portraits and environment tell their own fascinating stories about coastal native life, and Moray helps by teasing out the cultural and imperial history embedded in Carr's expressive art.

On the topic of intercultural interactions, the photographs of Edward Curtis are artistic artifacts that are routinely praised and criticized. His vast thirty-year documentation of Native Americans, in distinctive and somber sepia tones, contains both accuracies and exaggerations, and his critics charge that his work was culturally exploitative. But the editors of The Many Faces of Edward Sherriff Curtis: Portraits and Stories from Native North America (Gilcrease Museum/UW Press) believe the "richness and texture as well as its beauty and its flaws" of his record outweigh the controversies, and they put forth 80 of his finest portraits to prove their point. One truth becomes the obvious: the dignity, hope and deep emotional affect emanating from the faces of these original people are moving beyond words and across time.

Combining many of the topics that arise in the previous titles – native traditions, natural history, art criticism, interracial encounters – Aldona Jonaitis's Art of the Northwest Coast (Douglas & McIntyre/UW Press) serves as a highly accessible survey of the big picture of indigenous art of Cascadia, a panoramic view that stands on the shoulders of pioneering scholars Bill Holm, Robin Wright and Steve Brown. Jonaitis attempts to answer the question of how "so much art, so finely made, developed here, in this strop of land from Puget Sound to Yakutat in Alaska," and she does so with an engaging storyteller's voice and a sumptuous wealth of illustrations of everything from a wooden shaman's rattle to red cedar bark hats and baskets to argillite pipes to a gallery of supernatural masks.

Offering one more perspective on Northwest native art, Raven Traveling (Douglas & McIntyre/UW Press) hones in on the art of Haida Gwaii, including over 100 vivid photographs of masks, sculpture, screens, paintings, jewelry and an array of useful everyday tools. Produced to coincide with the 75-year anniversary of the Vancouver Art Gallery and the Raven Traveling" exhibition, these pages are laden with poems and myths, prayers and interviews, all of which help to create a living portrait of a living culture that has survived for untold centuries.

Galen Rowell was an archetypal American adventure photographer, the kind of artist who traveled to remote spots, scaled sheer mountain walls and plunged down raging rivers in order to capture the high energy and excitement of mountaineering and other backcountry pursuits. Though he died in a plane wreck in 2002, his legacy has been preserved in Galen Rowell: A Retrospective (Sierra Club Books), which showcases 175 of his iconic images from California's Sierra Nevadas, Tibet's Himalayas, Chile's Patagonia and beyond. Unlike much of the mountaineering culture, Rowell's output was never the typical adrenaline-fueled fare of "extreme sports." Intimacy and reverence animate his photographs, and he frequently turned his lens to wildlife, foreign culture and the textured details of the planet's landscapes. This book is an awe-inspiring celebration of the diversity of life and land on earth, created by a man who went the extra distance to pursue his passions.

Passion for the wild likewise guided the life and work of Edward Abbey, the legendary author who is routinely marginalized as a "nature writer." In reality, Abbey was novelist, philosophizer, polemicist, essayist, poet, part-time misanthrope and world-class crank. What unites his diverse bibliography is an unceasing and vehement concern for America's wilderness and the values that wild places bestow upon our fledgling culture, as well as a love of argument and debate, a gift for clever usage of the English language, a politically-incorrect sense of humor and a heartfelt dedication to the deserts of the Southwest. All of these qualities can be found in raging abundance in Postcards from Ed: Dispatches and Salvos from an American Iconoclast (Milkweed Editions), a collection of his correspondences to Annie Dillard, Jim Harrison, Barry Lopez, Cormac McCarthy and a wide range of periodicals, government agencies and book publishers. At turns wrathful, sarcastic, generous, hilarious, moving and angry, the sheer brilliance and entertainment to be found in Abbey's prodigious output of letters makes me rue the loss of handwritten letters and postcards in our digital age.











11 June 2008

Darius Kinsey, Photographer


Ansel Adams of the Pacific Northwest

You have to wonder what drove Darius Kinsey to sojourn away from the comforts of his stately 12-room Seattle home to enter the dripping, dark primeval forests of the Pacific Northwest so incessantly. Over the course of two decades, he was frequently finding excuses to jump a train or motor coach north out of the city to return to the logging camps, shantytowns, deep groves and snowy summits of the Cascadian back-of-beyond. Of course, he always packed along his large-format camera and crates of negatives with him. The tools of his art lent purpose to his wanderings.

Traveling through the untamed Northwest undergrowth, with its thickets of devil's club, vine maples and salal and ankle-twisting maze of downed and decomposing old-growth trees, was seldom an easy affair, and Kinsey didn't travel light. His 11x14 Eastman View camera weighed around 15 pounds and the large 20x24 inch glass negative plates were both fragile and unwieldy. The Skagit Courier reports in 1902 that Kinsey traveled with over 250 pounds of photographic gear to shoot one remarkable Doug Fir.

Even though his Eastman View was advertised as "an excellent camera of strong and substantial construction," it is doubtful that many Kodak customers pushed their equipment to the extremes that Kinsey did: shooting in all vagrancies of weather, crawling up and down fern-choked gorges, teetering across the goat trails of hard rock miners.

"For Kinsey," explains the Whatcom Museum of History and Art website, "finding the perfect shot sometimes meant dodging avalanches, crossing crevasses and jumping over rattlesnakes."

If he wasn't lugging around his camera, which occasionally was an even-heavier 20x24 model, he could be found next to waterfalls or a cedar shake cabin experimenting in the improvised arts of taking stereo-camera shots, making glass lantern slide images and capturing panoramic perspectives with his "Cirkut" camera, a self-revolving 50-pound behemoth that spooled out negatives 10 inches wide and 20 feet long.

The breadth of Kinsey's work gives off a sense of restlessness matched by an insatiable curiosity. I imagine a man who, so in awe of the raw landscape around him, couldn't sit still. The Whatcom Museum notes that even on family trips to the wood, Kinsey "was known to jump out of the car on a moment’s notice, set up his equipment on the shoulder of the road or disappear up a trail."



Kinsey is most well known for the record he created of the Pacific Northwest logging culture. His photos immortalize tableaus of mustachioed men in tin pants and suspenders, buckers crosscutting fallen cedars, horses slipping down skid roads, shake-splitters retiring to their smoldering stump huts and steam engines traversing massive trestles.

"Through a fifty-year career in photography," museum archivist Jeff Jewell recently explained to me, "Kinsey captured the monumental interaction between men, machinery and mammoth trees that defined early logging in northwest Washington."

Though he created a visual history of our corner of the continent majestic in scope, Kinsey's work isn’t simply about quantity or the dry assemblage of a historical record. There is a majestic, bold and original artistic quality to the prints he produced that calls to mind the similarly stunning work of Ansel Adams. Both share the same palette of rich inky blackness and the thousand subtle shades of grey, the shockingly sharp detail and eye for dramatic composition. Much like Adams and his beloved Yosemite Valley, Kinsey’s work presents the Northwest woods as a cathedral. There is a sense of architecture, space and depth, and a somber, serious light in many of his prints of the forest.

The Whatcom Museum, which holds and tends the world's largest Kinsey archive, has recently put on display 38 Kinsey prints, 21 of which have never been displayed in public before. Many of the “new” images are donations from locals who have found Kinsey pieces among their family possessions – large format negatives, photographs and an extremely rare custom album of 11x14 original prints.

“The real star of the exhibit is a four piece panoramic of a lumber mill with workers and their families, circa 1910,” says Jewell. “It's from four original photographs that revealed how Kinsey shot a series of 11" x 14" negatives that, once printed, (his wife) Tabitha could match and glue together as a panoramic image. It was an aspect of the Kinseys' work that was unknown until the donation of these photographs to the Whatcom Museum in 2003.”



“Some photographers take reality... and impose the domination of their own thought and spirit,” Adams once remarked. “Others come before reality more tenderly and a photograph to them is an instrument of love and revelation.” Kinsey, as revealed in his sensitive body of work, falls in the later camp. Those of us fascinated by the history of the Pacific Northwest – and in love with the forest -- are all the more fortunate for it.

photos copyright Whatcom Museum of History and Art.

04 June 2008

"And it still surprises me the number of longtime Northwesterners who have never heard of this plant."


Salal: Listening for the Northwest Understory
By Laurie Ricou
Reviewed by Christian Martin


Human beings have evolved in concert with the natural world for tens of thousands of years. Our complex relationships with the plant world have been particularly crucial in the development of our cultures. These interconnections between people and the varied green world are rich places for examination and mediation; one can learn more about ourselves by studying the plant life that surrounds us. Gary Paul Nabhan comes to mind as a leading thinker in these thickets, and Michael Pollan was fruitful in this realm of exploration with his best-selling book The Botany of Desire.

Laurie Ricou, a literature professor at the University of British Columbia, is the latest writer to look at the human-plant alliance, and his exploration is especially rewarding for local readers because he has chosen to take a deep, long look at salal and the corresponding cultures, both indigenous and modern, of the Pacific Northwest.

His new book Salal: Listening for the Northwest Understory is a sustained cogitation on this one common native species. It brings together a wide variety of disciplines including natural history, sociology, global economics, poetry, botany, biogeography and forest ecology. The multi-layered prose features a rich panoply of voices that Ricou gathers together from field interviews, excerpts from other authors and poets, native myths, historical archives and elsewhere, so that Ricou serves as a conductor of voices from across the ages, everybody with their own take on this ubiquitous, glossy-green shrub.

Ricou is a playful writer not afraid to bend the rules of writing, to take risks with language and look for illumination in surprising juxtapositions. He has an exhaustive sense of curiosity as well, and a voluminous familiarity with the literature of our region. All of these gifts were on display in his last book The Arbutus/Madrone Files: Reading the Pacific Northwest, a thought-provoking survey of Pacific Northwest literature from both sides of the border.

I recently had a chance to converse with Ricou about his interest in all-things-salal and what he learned in the process of writing this book.

Q: Why write a book about salal?

Laurie Ricou: The book began with my asking my literature students to do little projects on the region's flora and fauna. They loved the discoveries they were making. Then, one of my students told me I should really contemplate salal--because it was a gorgeous plant, with an important connection to the female economy--women could make a modest independent living harvesting it.

Q: How is your book different from a botanic field guide?

LR: Well, it is maybe a very ample field guide, but to just one species, and the "fields" are much wider, more varied, than in the usual guide--extending from gardens and nurseries to painting and poetry and symphonic music.

Q: What surprised you in your salal research?

LR: The most surprising thing is the sheer volume and dollar value of salal that is "harvested" entirely in the wild and shipped around the world (for use in floral displays). And it still surprises me the number of longtime Northwesterners who have never heard of this plant.

Q: What can one learn about a culture by studying a plant?

LR: That it is continually growing and endlessly interconnecting.

Q: You write, "What if I tried to listen to 'the animate earth'? To the ways in which salal speaks? What would I hear?" Well, what did you hear?

LR: I held my breath and heard small creatures rustle under the salal. I think it speaks sea rhythms.

Q: What larger truths are possible to discover by focusing in and drilling down on the often-mundane particulars?

LR: I suppose that we need to pay attention to what we don't pay attention to....

Q: Does salal serve as a metaphor for the Pacific Northwest?

LR: By the time you finish my book, you will be tempted to think so.

© 2008 roadside cafe productions