17 October 2008

Flyaway











(Winter in town)
October 13, 1976

(1)
Before the bar closes
I stumble up the hill alone.
The whole town is asleep.

Geese crying in the night sky
wake me out of my drunkenness
into the ancient pathway
given to us
before we had minds.

I am the brother of geese
On my bare arms
long ago
there were feathers.

(2)
Fly at night,
dark sky under your wings.
Sing with your brothers
and
fear no hunter.

Let me hear
over the sea of feathers
that song
carried on in the night,

wave after wave
rising out of the silence, going on--

same song
same silence
as I rise into the sky,
this white feather glowing in my mouth.

-- Robert Sund, La Conner

11 June 2008

Darius Kinsey, Photographer


Ansel Adams of the Pacific Northwest

You have to wonder what drove Darius Kinsey to sojourn away from the comforts of his stately 12-room Seattle home to enter the dripping, dark primeval forests of the Pacific Northwest so incessantly. Over the course of two decades, he was frequently finding excuses to jump a train or motor coach north out of the city to return to the logging camps, shantytowns, deep groves and snowy summits of the Cascadian back-of-beyond. Of course, he always packed along his large-format camera and crates of negatives with him. The tools of his art lent purpose to his wanderings.

Traveling through the untamed Northwest undergrowth, with its thickets of devil's club, vine maples and salal and ankle-twisting maze of downed and decomposing old-growth trees, was seldom an easy affair, and Kinsey didn't travel light. His 11x14 Eastman View camera weighed around 15 pounds and the large 20x24 inch glass negative plates were both fragile and unwieldy. The Skagit Courier reports in 1902 that Kinsey traveled with over 250 pounds of photographic gear to shoot one remarkable Doug Fir.

Even though his Eastman View was advertised as "an excellent camera of strong and substantial construction," it is doubtful that many Kodak customers pushed their equipment to the extremes that Kinsey did: shooting in all vagrancies of weather, crawling up and down fern-choked gorges, teetering across the goat trails of hard rock miners.

"For Kinsey," explains the Whatcom Museum of History and Art website, "finding the perfect shot sometimes meant dodging avalanches, crossing crevasses and jumping over rattlesnakes."

If he wasn't lugging around his camera, which occasionally was an even-heavier 20x24 model, he could be found next to waterfalls or a cedar shake cabin experimenting in the improvised arts of taking stereo-camera shots, making glass lantern slide images and capturing panoramic perspectives with his "Cirkut" camera, a self-revolving 50-pound behemoth that spooled out negatives 10 inches wide and 20 feet long.

The breadth of Kinsey's work gives off a sense of restlessness matched by an insatiable curiosity. I imagine a man who, so in awe of the raw landscape around him, couldn't sit still. The Whatcom Museum notes that even on family trips to the wood, Kinsey "was known to jump out of the car on a moment’s notice, set up his equipment on the shoulder of the road or disappear up a trail."



Kinsey is most well known for the record he created of the Pacific Northwest logging culture. His photos immortalize tableaus of mustachioed men in tin pants and suspenders, buckers crosscutting fallen cedars, horses slipping down skid roads, shake-splitters retiring to their smoldering stump huts and steam engines traversing massive trestles.

"Through a fifty-year career in photography," museum archivist Jeff Jewell recently explained to me, "Kinsey captured the monumental interaction between men, machinery and mammoth trees that defined early logging in northwest Washington."

Though he created a visual history of our corner of the continent majestic in scope, Kinsey's work isn’t simply about quantity or the dry assemblage of a historical record. There is a majestic, bold and original artistic quality to the prints he produced that calls to mind the similarly stunning work of Ansel Adams. Both share the same palette of rich inky blackness and the thousand subtle shades of grey, the shockingly sharp detail and eye for dramatic composition. Much like Adams and his beloved Yosemite Valley, Kinsey’s work presents the Northwest woods as a cathedral. There is a sense of architecture, space and depth, and a somber, serious light in many of his prints of the forest.

The Whatcom Museum, which holds and tends the world's largest Kinsey archive, has recently put on display 38 Kinsey prints, 21 of which have never been displayed in public before. Many of the “new” images are donations from locals who have found Kinsey pieces among their family possessions – large format negatives, photographs and an extremely rare custom album of 11x14 original prints.

“The real star of the exhibit is a four piece panoramic of a lumber mill with workers and their families, circa 1910,” says Jewell. “It's from four original photographs that revealed how Kinsey shot a series of 11" x 14" negatives that, once printed, (his wife) Tabitha could match and glue together as a panoramic image. It was an aspect of the Kinseys' work that was unknown until the donation of these photographs to the Whatcom Museum in 2003.”



“Some photographers take reality... and impose the domination of their own thought and spirit,” Adams once remarked. “Others come before reality more tenderly and a photograph to them is an instrument of love and revelation.” Kinsey, as revealed in his sensitive body of work, falls in the later camp. Those of us fascinated by the history of the Pacific Northwest – and in love with the forest -- are all the more fortunate for it.

photos copyright Whatcom Museum of History and Art.

04 June 2008

"And it still surprises me the number of longtime Northwesterners who have never heard of this plant."


Salal: Listening for the Northwest Understory
By Laurie Ricou
Reviewed by Christian Martin


Human beings have evolved in concert with the natural world for tens of thousands of years. Our complex relationships with the plant world have been particularly crucial in the development of our cultures. These interconnections between people and the varied green world are rich places for examination and mediation; one can learn more about ourselves by studying the plant life that surrounds us. Gary Paul Nabhan comes to mind as a leading thinker in these thickets, and Michael Pollan was fruitful in this realm of exploration with his best-selling book The Botany of Desire.

Laurie Ricou, a literature professor at the University of British Columbia, is the latest writer to look at the human-plant alliance, and his exploration is especially rewarding for local readers because he has chosen to take a deep, long look at salal and the corresponding cultures, both indigenous and modern, of the Pacific Northwest.

His new book Salal: Listening for the Northwest Understory is a sustained cogitation on this one common native species. It brings together a wide variety of disciplines including natural history, sociology, global economics, poetry, botany, biogeography and forest ecology. The multi-layered prose features a rich panoply of voices that Ricou gathers together from field interviews, excerpts from other authors and poets, native myths, historical archives and elsewhere, so that Ricou serves as a conductor of voices from across the ages, everybody with their own take on this ubiquitous, glossy-green shrub.

Ricou is a playful writer not afraid to bend the rules of writing, to take risks with language and look for illumination in surprising juxtapositions. He has an exhaustive sense of curiosity as well, and a voluminous familiarity with the literature of our region. All of these gifts were on display in his last book The Arbutus/Madrone Files: Reading the Pacific Northwest, a thought-provoking survey of Pacific Northwest literature from both sides of the border.

I recently had a chance to converse with Ricou about his interest in all-things-salal and what he learned in the process of writing this book.

Q: Why write a book about salal?

Laurie Ricou: The book began with my asking my literature students to do little projects on the region's flora and fauna. They loved the discoveries they were making. Then, one of my students told me I should really contemplate salal--because it was a gorgeous plant, with an important connection to the female economy--women could make a modest independent living harvesting it.

Q: How is your book different from a botanic field guide?

LR: Well, it is maybe a very ample field guide, but to just one species, and the "fields" are much wider, more varied, than in the usual guide--extending from gardens and nurseries to painting and poetry and symphonic music.

Q: What surprised you in your salal research?

LR: The most surprising thing is the sheer volume and dollar value of salal that is "harvested" entirely in the wild and shipped around the world (for use in floral displays). And it still surprises me the number of longtime Northwesterners who have never heard of this plant.

Q: What can one learn about a culture by studying a plant?

LR: That it is continually growing and endlessly interconnecting.

Q: You write, "What if I tried to listen to 'the animate earth'? To the ways in which salal speaks? What would I hear?" Well, what did you hear?

LR: I held my breath and heard small creatures rustle under the salal. I think it speaks sea rhythms.

Q: What larger truths are possible to discover by focusing in and drilling down on the often-mundane particulars?

LR: I suppose that we need to pay attention to what we don't pay attention to....

Q: Does salal serve as a metaphor for the Pacific Northwest?

LR: By the time you finish my book, you will be tempted to think so.

© 2008 roadside cafe productions

24 April 2008

The Dalai Lama in the Pacific Northwest



As a result of the Dalai Lama's recent visit to the Pacific Northwest, I've been inspired to create, collect and share various sounds and words I've created to honor him and his work in this world. Click here to link to a webpage on another site of mine that will lead you to stories I've published about his 2004 Vancouver B.C. visit and 2008 Seattle visit, as well as audio podcasts of his talks:

08 February 2008

Herons in Winter in the Frozen Marsh

All winter
two blue herons
hunkered in the frozen marsh,
like two columns of blue smoke.

What they are
I can't imagine,
unless it was the small laces
of snow that settled

in the ruckus of the cattails,
or the glazed windows of ice
under the tired
pitchforks of their feet --

so the answer is
they ate nothing,
and nothing good could come of that.
They were mired in nature, and starving.

Still, every morning
they shrugged the rime from their shoulders,
and all day they
stood to attention

in the stubbled desolation.
I was filled with admiration,
sympathy,
and, of course, empathy.

It called for a miracle.
Finally the marsh softened,
and their wings cranked open
revealing the old blue light,

so that I thought: how could this possibly be
the blunt, dark finish?
First one, then the other, vanished
into the ditches and upheavals.

All spring, I watched the rising blue-green grass,
above its gleaming and substantial shadows,
toss in the breeze,
like wings.

--Mary Oliver, from Owls and Other Fantasies

Ms. Oliver was recently in Seattle, and gave a sold-out reading at Benaroya Hall. I consider myself blessed to have been in attendance....

21 December 2007

Podcast Cafe 2.0



The Podcast Cafe, featuring 2 years of top-shelf quality musical mixes offered up in podcast form for free, was recently relocated to a new home at www.podcastcafe.org. In addition to the original Podcast Cafe series, Sunnyland Soundsystem is now hosting two more channels: The Live Archive and the mysterious Radio Free Fundi. We've even set up a new blog for music news & views.

Hope to see you over at the cafe!

Christian/DJ Fundi

09 October 2007

hibernating....

Um, yeah. Haven't been over to this mossy corner since last May. Got busy last spring preparing for Burning Man and working on a different blog over at a website I put together: www.destinationburningman.com.

Posted quite a few photos over the summer too at FLICKR here and here.

Sometimes I connect a cool photo to the place where it was taken via Panoramio and Google Earth here. Love that Google Earth, lemme tell you! Swooping up the ish rivers from estuary to headwaters, like a raven, following the braids and forks -- gives me a new appreciation of the landscapes of Ish River country and how it all fits together.

My musical mixes are still available via the Podcast Cafe and at Destination Burning Man.

Hmmm....

In Praise of My Ink Bottle

Life flows on, I go from place to place.
I carry this ink bottle with me
wherever I go.

--Robert Sund

The Ish River Itinerate is going in to deep hibernation now....bye!

18 May 2007

Destination Burning Man (or, Why This Blog is So Quiet This Spring!)


If you visit this blog on a regular basis, you've noticed that I've been slacking off on new postings over the past month or so. That's because I started up a new website project and have been pouring all of my energy in to it lately. It's called Destination Burning Man, and it's a site tracking the progress of me and my two NW bros (the "three broke dudes") as we scheme and dream our way towards Burning Man this summer. It's got a blog following our unfolding journey, a bunch of groovy podcasts, photo galleries, bios, web links and a bunch of other stuff, and I'm hoping that it will help raise some fund$ via PayPayl donations to assist us in our adventure.

This all has nothing to do with the natural history of Ish River Country, but I thought I ought to post an explanation as to why this blog has been so quiet lately. Maybe you'll want to go check out Destination Burning Man, and if you like what you see and hear, maybe you'll want to put a few dollars in to our virtual donation jar.

Washington WildWatchCams

I've been over the moon watching watching eagles, owls, herons, bluebirds and an osprey tend to their young in nests throughout Ish River Country this past week via webcams courtesy of the Washington Department of Fish & Wildlife. There are a number of cameras mounted on the edge of bird nests, from which one can witness the daily activities of the aforementioned birds sitting on eggs and/or tending to their freshly-hatched little ones.Normally, these cameras can be pretty boring, but right now is prime time for lots of busy nesting activity, and I find myself leaving the browser windows on my desktop all day, monitoring what is nothing less than an amazing show of new spring life and parental nurturing.
These photos are some highlights from the past couple of days. Watch the show yourself by visiting the WildWatchCams homepage.

31 March 2007

Spring Migrations


Springtime is advancing rapidly here in Ish River country, with Red Currants and Indian Plum in full bloom, bringing in the hummingbirds from the south. The arrival of migrating birds is, to me, the surest sign of the seasonal shifting. My daily commute through the Skagit Valley reveals a few Trumpeter swans still mucking about in the muddy farm fields, but their numbers are diminished, and the snow geese don't seem to be around anymore -- maybe they are somewhere over British Columbia, flying northward to the Aleutian Islands where they nest and raise their young in what must be one cacophonous assembly of life.

This year, I've been loving a new technological advance that is helping me to more fully realize the miracle of bird migration. Several researchers have attached satellite-based receivers to specific species, which is nothing new, but the birds' movements are being tracked via Google Earth, which is. I am a huge fan of Google Earth, and have spent many hours visiting locales all over the planet, from Jackson Hole to Costa Rica to Tibet. I think it an excellent tool to help one get a better sense of place for where they live, and to better visualize the breadth and diversity of the planet's geographies and ecosystems. It gives one a bird's eye view of the land, and let's one explore and better appreciate how things fit together: mountain ranges, valleys, rivers, watersheds, plains, deltas, the patterns of human settlements and the wild, empty places that still exist.

Anyways, I know of three websites where you can download .kmz files, which open in Google Earth, and show the daily movements of migrating birds. Bud Anderson, Ish River's premier hawk guru, and the Falcon Research Group are tracking peregrine falcons of Chile -- you read an overview of the Southern Cross Peregrine Project and download the .kmz files to follow seven specific birds at their website and follow their ongoing discoveries blog..

Another similar project is tracking Bar-tailed godwits as they leave New Zealand and head north through Asia. You can download the .kmz file and follow their daily movements at this USGS website.

If you know of any other similar projects where animals are being tracked via Google Earth, email me and let me know!



18 March 2007

Dark Days in a Dank Place

Ish River Itinerate offers this report from a correspondent up in the north fork of the Nooksack, Mr. Trail Rat. We're reprinting his submitted field report verbatim. Dark days, indeed.
-- the editor


Dark Days in a Dank Place
Police “crack-down,” tragic blaze mar 22nd Annual Legendary
Banked Slalom


by Trail Rat

What should have been a joyous weekend-long festival of snowboarding and celebration in the upper North Fork Valley was, instead, inexplicably dampered by a bungling, overzealous detachment of local law-enforcers and the devastating loss of one of Whatcom County's most unique and historically significant "pioneer-era" structures.

Citing a need to prevent everything from large, unruly parties, open drug use, reckless/drunken driving and snowboard theft, Whatcom County Sheriff Bill Elfo unleashed a small army of several dozen deputies, State Troopers, K-9 units and undercover officers to secure the eastern foothills from droves of raving, out-of-control snowboarders during Banked Slalom
weekend (Feb. 9-11).

Along with issuing 108 traffic citations, these so-called "peace officers" hassled and intimidated scores of innocent pedestrians walking along Mt. Baker highway, crashed through the gate at Mt. Baker Rim (twice!), ticketed a skateboarder and tasered a dog. Scores of locals and visitors alike (including film crews, journalists and professional snowboarders from all over the globe) reported being harassed without probable cause and business owners received complaints of intimidating police behavior from customers
throughout the weekend.

Sadly, even as the hills fairly swarmed with pistol-toting, ticket-happy law men, the Powers That Be could not prevent a tragic, Friday night blaze that
reduced the historic Bourn-Anderson cabin to little more than a pile of smoldering ash by Saturday afternoon.

This legendary (and much-cherished) log cabin, built in the 1930s by local prospector Charlie Anderson with the help of Jerry Bourn, represented Whatcom County's last remaining ties (historically and architecturally) to the historic Mt. Baker Mining District and, ironically, had recently been identified as one of the “Most Endangered Historic Properties” in the state
by the Washington Trust for Historic Preservation.

Jerry Bourn, the colorful, misanthropic "Mountain Man" who occupied the cabin from the time of Charlie Anderson’s death in the 1940s until his own demise (by car accident) in 1980, single-handedly battled the Forest Service for decades to maintain his “squatter's right” to occupy the unpatented mining claim on which the cabin sat.

While losing the cabin deals a devastating blow to the fledgling preservation efforts of our community's rich and illustrious pioneering heritage, it hardly comes as a shock. Despite many calls to better preserve this unique, last-of-its-kind "historic resource" in the years since Mr. Bourn’s passing, the cabin was left to deteriorate -- suffering a “slow but gradual death” at the destructive hands of vandals, punishing mountain snows and a near-criminal lack of restoration funding.

All of which leads one to ponder: is the current post 9-11/Homeland Security trend of accelerated, near-unimpeded law enforcement spending (locally and nationally) actually making our communities any safer? For roughly the same cost of employing a deputy and a trooper for a year, an invaluable historic landmark could have been secured, re-built and properly managed for this (and all future generations) to contemplate, explore and enjoy.

But instead, what do we get? Our history reduced to a pile of scorched beer bottles and the bitter, highly unsavory aftertaste of yet another quasi-fascist
police-action in our mouths. No, folks. That big, roiling mist-cloud blowing down the North Fork isn’t rain (or even bong smoke), its the grim, ever-darkening shadow of authoritarianism blotting out the once wide-open, bluebird skies of our mountainous "frontier".

Even with the Pro Men's Golden Duct Tape now safely back in the hands of a local rider for the first time since the Craig Kelly era (thank you Lucas Debari!), it appears that The Age Of The Mountain Crusties is about to slip away from us forever virtually unmarked and largely unsung. Meanwhile, the Sirens of Fear are blaring, the hounds are baying and good old-fashioned
independence (not to mention personal integrity and social responsibility) are on the run.

Jerry Bourn AND Craig Kelly must be turning in their graves.

04 March 2007

Ish River Itinerate on Flickr


Here's a show from my personal stash of favorite images from in and around Ish River Country. They are posted on FLICKR with some caption information here.